I had to get up at 4am the next morning to catch the bus back to Addis.
The footpath was crammed
with sleeping bodies, one after the other in neat straight rows. I decided that
they needed this order because there were so many people trying to fit in, like
a sardine can or a supermarket shelf. I had to walk in the middle of the road
as there wasn’t even room for my feet amongst the tightly packed rows of
people.
It was a winding road back
around the mountain sides. The woman in front of me started to vomit, which set
off the woman behind me. The humid air in the bus filled with a pungent waft of
bile and I was sure I would be next.
The driver did not stop
for the sick women, he just handed them both, and myself, a plastic bag. When
their bags were full the women pegged them out the window to splatter on the
road beside shanty houses and working donkeys.
At our lunch stop the
driver sat with me and offered me some of his grizzly goat meat and bitter
injera. I gagged at the thought. It looked not unlike the vomit that I had
watched fly through the air and spill on the road. He bought me a coffee and
asked me if I had a boyfriend.
When we boarded the bus he
told me to sit up the front beside him. I pretended I didn’t understand and
took my old seat in the second row from the back. For the rest of the trip he
stared at me in the rear-vision mirror and tried to catch my eye. On the few
occasions that he did he raised his eyebrows suggestively and I thought that
now I was sure to need that sick-bag.
Even though the driver
would not stop for the sick women he would stop to get off the bus to make
calls and buy chat. His private breaks, along with the fifty police checks made
the trip back to Addis take about three hours longer than it needed to.
The next day back in Addis
I walked to Meskal
Square to
buy a bus ticket north, and who should I bump in to – John! The annoying guy
from the first day who followed me around and would not let me go. He was
sitting 50 meters ahead of me on a fence as though he knew I was
coming all along. But there was no where I could turn and I had to eventually
pass him. How, I wondered, in a city of over 4 million people, did I manage to
bump into him on my first, and only, day back in Addis?
He looked me up and down
hungrily and I cringed from his creepiness.
He insisted on walking me
home, I tried to say no but he followed me anyway. I was quite rude to him. He
kept telling me that I was beautiful and very fashionable (ha!) I would reply
to his compliments with “oh yeah”. As we walked he would point out the obvious,
one of my pet hates is being told the obvious, “this is a river! This is a
supermarket!” I wanted to poke him in the eye with my index finger. He told me
that he was going to get bats tattooed on his arm just like mine.
After half an hour of his
nattering and my cold, rude replies he stopped and said to me:
“Don’t judge a book by its
cover. I want to be your friend. I don’t want money or anything from you, just
to be your friend”.
My heart sank with guilt
and I softened, determined to at least be polite to the poor guy. Though it
wasn’t his appearance that turned me off him (the fact he only had five teeth
for example), I was rude because he was too persistent and I assumed that he
wanted sex.
But when the conversation
turned to sex I became certain that my first instinct was right – he did just
want sex.
“Do you like sex?” he
asked me.
“errrr… Sure… I guess…
depends who with… with my boyfriend yes…. Actually, I have only ever had sex
with my boyfriend”.
I added, trying to sound
pure and give the impression that his chance of having sex with me was less
than 0!
“Sex is what I like. Food
– no! Food is just to shit. Sex is what I live for!”
“Not me… I like food” I
said in retort.
“Sex with white women is
different” he continued.
I rolled my eyes, the
number of men I’d met in Africa who’d started conversations like this.
“Ten years ago I slept
with a German woman” He went on “She told me what to do, and I did it… like
slave. Now I am good at pleasing women”.
He topped that off with:
“You like to tell men what
to do!”
“More out of bed than in
bed” I said to amuse myself more than him.
He looked at me, waiting
for my acceptance of his offer.
“I only have sex with my
boyfriend… no other men!” I told him straight.
By this time we had
reached the internet café I had planned to go into so that he wouldn’t know
which hotel I was in, though it was close enough to my hotel for him to
probably be able to figure it out.
“Goodbye” I said to him and
began to walk away.
“I want to have sex with a
white woman!” he called after me.
“Good luck finding one, I
hope you do” I replied.
He chased after me.
“You come here often?” he
was referring to the internet place. “I will come here everyday to look for
you.
“I am leaving tomorrow for
Bahir Dar” I reminded him.
“But you will be back, so
I will come here every day looking for you”
“That is insane” I said. “I
don’t know when I will be back, or even if I will be back, so you may
come everyday and never find me”
“No matter! I come
everyday anyway”
“Do as you want, but don’t
count on seeing me again”. I said, knowing full well I will never be back at
that internet café again.
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