Anti-gay Ghana

The driver picked me up at 9.30am, I went to the castle while he waited outside and then I got him to drop me at my next hotel. I swore then no more private cabs, for the rest of my trip I would only do local transport with the locals.
I checked in to the crocodile hotel (a place built on a swamp with crocodiles roaming around - how touristy kitsch!) Then I headed off to Kakum National Park to see monkeys. I didnt see a single monkey, but the walk through it on a 40m high canopy walkway was nice enough.
That night at the crocodile 'botel' I sat at the resteraunt perched over the swamp and ordered Western food. I'm ashamed to admit that is what I ate but I was so desperate for vegetables I hadnt had a single one the whole time I was in Ghana. The lights went out shortly after I ordered and the waiter lit a couple of candles at my table. I was the only person sitting on the deck, there was a couple at the resteraunt as well but they were inside. It was a warm, still night. I ate my soup and salad and listened to the gentle splashing sounds of the crocodiles slipping in and out of the water beneath me. It was the most content that I had felt since arriving and I hoped this night wouldn't end. It did end when the waiter came over and asked if he could have my phone. I said no, that I needed my phone, and he stood there looking hurt. He wasnt about to leave the table until I gave him something, so I slipped him enough cash to cover my meal and left.
The next day I get to the bus station at 7.30am, I was told the day before that my bus back to Accra was to leave at 8am. When I went to buy my ticket the woman said no the bus was arriving at 3pm. I had seven and a half hours to kill!! I went for a walk in the scorching heat, leaving my pack behind, but the walk didnt last long due to the heat and my anxiousness to be near my belongings.So I sat at the bus station and switched my focus between the slowly ticking clock and the TV.
At around 1pm a programme began that was not spoken in English but English words were continuously flashing up on the screen and scrolling across the bottom. The words kept exclaiming "homosexuality is a sin", "get rid of lesbians" and a heap of the usual crap - some bible quotes and images of crazed looking gays. There was a song in the middle of the show, it was upbeat and the people on the screen were clapping and dancing and looking pretty darn merry. The words continued to glide across the screen stating "gay people will go to hell".
Finally 3pm came... but not my bus. I go back to the counter and the woman says "bus is full".
"What!! What!! I fucking bought my ticket at 8am this morning and now you tell me it is full!" I did yell at her, I had just sat for 7 hours watching people singing that I am an abobination and going to hell, and now this insolent woman tells me I wont get my bus, and why the hell didnt she tell me seven hours ago!!!

"It starts in another city" she tells me "so we dont know if it is full until it gets here". I could have jumped across the table and strangled her, why sell me a ticket then if it might be full, isnt that why you buy a ticket - to reserve a seat?
I catch a share taxi into town then a tro tro (a beat-up old van packed with anywhere from 10 to 15 hot sweaty bodies literally sitting on top of one another) back to Accra, then a second tro tro to the main part of town, then a 40 minute walk with my pack on my back, sweaty dripping off me and finally I get to the hotel again.
I had the best shower ever that night, I was thinking how lucky it was just to have running water.